DIY Vermicomposting – The worm farm is a budget
You wanted to set up a home worm farm but abolished the high cost of purchasing one of the decent "designer labels" vermicomposting kits that were handled by garden centers and post office are customer companies supported? Well, let's cut the shit! – ITS ACTUAL IS NOT SECRET! "You can easily make your own DIY three bin stock for a few bucks, and the worms will be as happy as the pig pig pigs and they will not see the big wolves. Also, you do not have to be a professional to achieve this!
- Hardware Stores, Supermarkets and Campgrounds sell hard, general-purpose black (opaque) plastic containers at very affordable prices. These are generally conical to embedded in order to facilitate gluing on retailers' shelves and fit into "19459002". The worm's economy requires three such conical tanks (but only one cover). For a simple worm paradise I would recommend the 12 gallon (45 liter) containers. Usually approx. 15 inches deep (400 mm). It may be smaller if you want.
- Drill a 3/8 inch (15 mm hole) hole in the first container, placed in the middle, on the side of the tank, just above the base. Insert a ½ inch (12mm) inexpensive plastic drum or irrigation pin (washers) into the hole and tighten the lock nuts tightly – make sure that you perform a good sealing test by filling the tank with tap water. This dish is the lowest on your stack and keeps the high-powered "worm tea" that drips from the above composting tanks. Worm tea is a valuable liquid organic fertilizer that can be directly diluted and used on your organic vegetable.
The two upper containers actually hold the worms. They must be the same and manufactured as follows: –
- 6 mm holes for drainage and disinfection and upward migration of compost worms must be drilled on the entire base of each tank. regularly in two directions (50 mm) in both directions.
- For aeration, drill two rows of 6 mm holes in two-inch (50 mm) center as a continuous band around each tank. This band would be about 100 mm from the top of the holes.
- It is not necessary to drill holes on the lid that is tightly sealed over the upper tank. because you need to get enough air on the pages.
- First, you created the bottom tank on bricks or blocks, which left enough space to remove the liquid underneath it. Select a shadowy place in the wormhole (in a shed or in a garage if there are frosts)
- The second and third containers are "nested" in one another and fall into the rinsing tank. In order to maintain the work area of the worms and build up the compost, some spacers or compactors are needed, Six to eight inches up to the top of the two top tanks and the bottom (well) bin. You can use wooden or enclosed containers for packaging. The wrappers prevent the tapered worm tan from jamming together.
- To prevent "ugly faults" from sticking between the containers, close the seal (19459002) or mosquito nets.
You are now ready for production. Space prevents you from giving full details on how to fine-tune your system, such as selecting and feeding worms, pest eradication, and maintaining a worm economy – for information, visit our website. Just make sure to cover the following points: –
- Set the worms in the top box with a good (wet) fibrous bed (or even shredded newspaper) and after a few days being ready to stay in the kitchen. Discover the food with several bedding materials to withstand the pests and close the lid.
- Make sure the worm has never dried out when drinking water is sprinkled with water when there is not enough moisture in the food
- When the top box is fully productive for a time, the worms grow and compost starts to accumulate worm castings. If the amount of compost is sensible, stop loading into the container and replace the top two containers by placing Tray 2 on the top of the stack as container 1 is in the center. Set this new tray with clean linen, small amounts of old castings, and I'll start feeding you in your kitchen right away. The worms, of course, go uphill to the new food source, leaving the bottom container with only a few bacon and ready to harvest the compost three weeks after the swap.
- All you have to do is periodically alternate with the regular replacement of the two-legged tanks while composting the compost and wiping worm tea from time to time . Use both products in your garden and flavor delicious, full-bodied vegetables and stunning roses. Sit back and enjoy the fruits of your work – the worms are doing most of the work!
A more detailed depiction of the simple worm economy in the manner described and some illustrative photos can be viewed on our site http://www.working-worms.com/
Source by sbobet th